#2. Pauline Trigère's collection at University of Texas Costume Institute

UT Costume Institute of Pauline Trigère garments

My introduction to the University of Texas Denton Costume Institute's collection came through my professor, Mrs. Rosemary Powell, during my early days as a fashion design student. This collection is home to one of the largest modern fashion collections in the country. It was established thanks to donations from socialites such as Mrs. Neiman Marcus along with other prominent members of the Texas elite. The extensive collection includes original Balenciaga gowns and coats from the 1940s, which I first studied during my initial visit to the archive in 1994, as well as various Pauline Trigère garments owned by Mrs. Neiman Marcus herself.

Examine a Pauline Dress dress

Studying a Trigere wool coat

Museum Director Annette Becker has been incredibly helpful and supportive during my numerous visits, as she arranges the garments ahead of my research appointments. One of the most fascinating pieces I came across was a two-piece outfit consisting of a dress and a long vest. I later stumbled upon a print advertisement from the May 1959 issue of Vogue magazine featuring this ensemble. The black cotton material has a white geometric diamond pattern throughout. The set includes a long shawl-style vest with a high collar, it's a silhouette which I have never encountered in all my years in the fashion industry. I was stunned a year later when I discovered a video clip of Ms. Trigère wearing this exact outfit at one of her fashion shows. You can view this video on her niece Jane Trigère's website.

As a designer, examining the detailed seams behind each garment, and discovering them worn is extremely gratifying. Especially when connecting the garments with a photograph and discover the history behind it. Delving into the archives and finding clothing items accompanied by either an editorial photo or worn by the original owner is a highly exciting for any researcher. Another large collection of Trigère garments were later found at Kent State University archive and you can read the separate blog of my visit HERE.

Follow my instagram at JessicaRabbit888 for more clips and research journey!

January 8, 2019, September 15, 2022