#38. Fashion Mayor of New York City: Stan Herman Book: Uncross Your Legs

One year prior to the publication of his autobiography, I had a fascinating interview with Mr. Stan Herman as part of my research for the Pauline Trigère book [HERE]. While there’s no official position of Fashion Mayor of New York City, there should be one, even an honorary title. Before Anna Wintour, before DVF, before the two Toms, (Tom Ford and Thom Browne), Stan Herman was the esteemed Fashion Mayor of New York City. At 96 years old, he continues to thrive. As the former president of the CFDA with the longest tenure from 1991 to 2006, Mr.Herman recounted his extensive career in the fashion industry in his eloquently written autobiography:  “Uncross Your Legs, A Life in Fashion” 

During our conversation, he fondly reminisced about his affection for Pauline and their relationship over the years. Stan affectionately nicknamed her “Leggy Pauline” due to her well-shaped legs, which she took pleasure in showing, especially on the dance floor. The book also featured a full-page photograph of Stan with Pauline at a gala.

Winner of 3 Coty Awards, King of uniforms for airlines such as United and JetBlue, as well as for companies such as Fedex and McDonalds. He continues to create designs for QVC today, including the major success of his chenille robes which sold 100,000 wraps in one day. Even though his namesake label in conjunction with the Mr.Mort brand has closed down, he remains a People’s Designer, with millions of individuals having worn his creations.

One story I particularly enjoyed from the book was a faux fur collection called the Central Park Zoo Collection.  A photo depicts the invitation that doubled as a ticket for the fashion show, printed on a simple brown paper bag with the message:  

“Come to the Zoo” and see all the Living Animals 

AND Lifestyle 70’s by Stan Herman.

May 12, 11am.  

Beer Garden

Central Park Zoo

Keep Ticket for Food”

The photo captures Stan and model Tasha Bauer wearing fun faux fur coats, with Stan sitting on the back of a bicycle and Tasha standing in the front, both appearing to have a great time laughing.  According to the description, New York Mayor John Lindsay granted Stan the Central Park Zoo to showcase the first faux-fur collection. The buyers were served with peanuts poured into the invitation paper bag. This unusual and fun presentation idea, I think, has not been tried by any other designers before or since.

The book also depicted the experiences of being a gay man in both the military and fashion industry.  During a time when being gay was heavily stigmatized, many gay men dated women and led double lives to maintain the facade of being straight.  While Stan never openly showcased his homosexuality, he also never concealed his relationship with his lifelong partner, Gene Horowitz, a writer known for his five well-received books, including the novel Home is Where you Start From. Stan detailed their 1953 encounter and subsequent whirlwind romance, sparking a loving relationship that lasted for four decades. 

Tragically, Gene passed away from a sudden and massive heart attack.  The moment Stan received the news, hearing the words “Mr.Horowitz did not make it,” he was consumed by grief, pounding the walls in anguish until he was drained.  It was an incredibly poignant moment and brought tears to my eyes.   Following Gene’s passing, Stan’s industry friends appointed him to the Presidency of CFDA, a position that came at the ideal time for him. Initially the CFDA membership was highly exclusive, as most members preferred to maintain a small membership limited to designers they considered “important” and upscale enough to join.  Nevertheless, Stan Herman and his predecessor Perry Ellis broadened the organization’s scope, aiming to create a more diverse membership that welcomed designers of all price points, regardless of their perceived perceived elitism. This shift towards inclusivity enhanced the organization and enriched the fashion industry overall.

I admire the raw honesty about the life of a designer, where a once popular label and collection come to an end.  “Mr.Mort” closed, “because no matter how much press genuflected, the bottomline didn’t support the applause.” The first televised CFDA event, which honored Yves Saint Laurent, lasted for four hours and was a disaster.  “Half of the audience had left and my Scotch bottle was empty.” However, Stan continued to chair many more galas and successfully sold hundreds of thousands of his iconic bathrobes on QVC for 30 years.

Another chapter centered around music and Stan’s passion for opera. Stan formed a close bond with playwright Terrence McNally, who also had a deep appreciation for opera. I had the fortunate opportunity to have seen the Broadway production of “Master Class” starring Zoe Cadwell and Audra McDonald, thus I really appreciate the backstory where Zoe Caldwell sought Stan’s opinion on Maria Callas’ attire, a plain black suit.  Stan replied he found it fitting and believed it contributed to her commanding presence, that he “approved and that it gave her the stature necessary to intimidate.”

Additionally, the book featured a lovely photograph of Stan alongside Secretary of Transportation Pete Buttigieg.  The picture was captured by Fern Mallis, the former Executive Director of CFDA, whom Stan affectionately referred to as his “work wife.”

The book provides valuable insights from a seasoned professional in the industry and extensive personal stories, it is a delightful read for enthusiasts of American fashion. At Bryant Park, where his office is situated, there is a marble park bench dedicated to Mr.Herman. If you happen to be close to the Bryant Park Grill restaurant, you can spot his name on the bench:  “HERE’S TO THE BEST FRONT ROW SEAT IN THE HOUSE. 7TH ON SIXTH NEW YORK FASHION WEEK BRYANT PARK 1993~2010 STAN HERMAN & FERN MALLIS.” This signifies the important contributions made by this esteemed fashion veteran, not only through his long career in design but also through his charismatic personality that brings people together, and is cherished by all around him.