#13. Unveiling the Whimsical Charm: Al Hirschfeld's Caricature of Pauline Trigère

Pauline Trigère by Al Hirschfeld, 1967

This Al Hirschfeld’s caricature of Pauline Trigère published in 1967 captured her essence brilliantly. Pauline’s iconic large tinted eyeglasses along with her signature turtle pins complete her look. An original pen and ink on board illustration signed with “Hirschfeld” was auctioned close to two thousand dollars on July 16, 2020 at Swann Auction Gallery. In the description it described Pauline was “pioneering in not only her designs, but also in her progressive beliefs.” In my book I documented how Pauline was the first designer in the fashion industry to hire an African American model for a major NY runway show in 1961, (see separate blog post [HERE]). This action shuttered the unspoken racial barrier for black models which also created ripple of news around the world.

This image was used as the cover of the National Arts Club's 1993 award to Pauline Trigère.

During my research, I was thrilled to discover a program stating below:

----------

The Third Annual Design Medal of Honor Saluting

Pauline Trigere

April 30, 1993

Greeting and Introductory Remarks:

Raymond Cuminale, Chairman, Design Committee

Mistress of Ceremonies

Liz Smith, Social Columnist

Guest Speakers:

Alan Blinkin/Business Executive,

Isabelle Leeds/Socialite,

Lynn Manulis/ Martha's, Palm Beach,

Gene Moore/Vice President, Window Design, Tiffany and Co,

Bernadine Morris/Fashion Writer, The New York Times,

Martin E. Segal/Chairman Emeritus, Lincoln Center and Chairman and Founder, New York International Festival of the Arts,

Gerald Shaw/President, Oscar de la Renta

Presentation of the Medal of Honor for Design

O. Aldon James Jr.

President, The National Arts Club

Remarks in Acceptance

Pauline Trigére

-------------

Al Hirschfeld was born in 1903 in St. Louis, Missouri and moved to NYC in 1915. He studied at The Art Student's League and The National Academy of Design. In his early twenties he further his art training in Paris and London. He created a unique caricature style and was soon gaining commissions for The New York Herald Tribune and The New York Times. He was one of the most important portraiture figure with an easily identifiable signature style, often simple black and white lines that in minimal strokes captures the essence of his subject. In this portrait of Pauline, two turtles pins were featured, one on her hair and another one on her lapel, as turtles were important in Pauline’s life where she collected a vast collection in various materials. Even her country house in South Salem, located in upstate New York was named “La Tortue”, French for ‘The Turtle’.

One is considered having enough celebrity status if have been illustrated by Al Hirschfeld.  His sketch is also famously known by hiding his daughter's name "NINA" inside the illustration, can you spot the "Nina" in this Trigere portrait? A brilliant in-depth article on Hirschfeld can be found [HERE] by writer Lisa Waller Rogers.

Not all of Hirschfeld’s subjects were flattered by Al’s portraiture. A famous squib with CBS’s TV program host Allen Funt resulted below exchange:

Allen Funt: Hirschfeld made me look like a monkey!

Al Hirschfeld: Not my fault. That was God’s work.

I can only imagine what conversation would have resulted if Pauline did not like Hirschfeld’s illustration of her, considering Trigère has a witty tongue and was never shy about her feelings. Thankfully this caricature was a dazzling rendering of Pauline and a copy hang proudly in Trigère’s country home.